An International Tour organised in conjunction with our friends at Oriole Birding. In the space of only a week, and just in coastal The Gambia within easy reach of our base at one of the tourist hotels by the beach, we recorded 251 species. A very relaxed introduction to West African birding. If you like what you read, we already have dates for 2025 – you would be very welcome to join us next year! You can find the details here.
Friday 15th November
We met at Gatwick at 6am, in good time for our 8.30am Titan Airways flight down to Banjul. We departed pretty much as scheduled and arrived on time at 3.00pm (no time difference – local time is the same as UK time, which is always a bonus travelling here). Around the terminal buildings, we picked up our first birds of the trip – several Laughing Doves and Speckled Pigeon. After a short queue inside to pay the airport tax and get through security, and not too long a wait until our bags arrived, we boarded the air-conditioned coach outside for transfer to our accommodation at the Senegambia Beach Hotel.
The new road from the airport is finally finished, but one of the carriageways was closed and sat empty this afternoon (apparently the president was supposed to arrive from abroad, but went the other way!). Traffic was trying to share the open side of the road and there was chaos at the junctions as cars were trying to get on and off, despite the presence of police to direct vehicles. Welcome to Africa!
It did mean we had a little extra time on the journey, and from the windows of the bus we saw a few Hooded Vultures and Yellow-billed Kites, lots of Pied Crows, more Speckled Pigeons, and both Laughing and Red-eyed Doves, to get our trip list started. We had to make several stops today at different resorts to drop people off on the way. A small group of Green Monkeys was loafing around on the wall by the entrance to one of them and a Western Red-billed Hornbill flew in and landed in a nearby palm at another. Finally we made it to the Senegambia.
After checking in and a short time to get ourselves sorted out, we met up with our local guides for the first couple of days, Modou Taal and Fanta. We still had time for a quick look round the extensive hotel gardens before it got dark and after a long day travelling it was nice to get out birding. It is good to get an introduction to some of the commoner birds of the Gambia but the species came so thick and fast, it was hard to keep up at times!
Hooded Vulture, Yellow-billed Kite and Red-eyed Dove were all perched on the roof of the main building – better views than from the window of the bus. Out on the open lawn nearby we found more Hooded Vultures standing around on the grass, plus several Long-tailed Glossy Starlings and Western Red-billed Hornbills. Our first White-crowned Robin-Chat landed on a palm frond in the bushes in front of us and a Broad-billed Roller was perched in a tree overhead. A Western Grey Plantain-eater flew in to the top of one of the taller trees beyond. As we walked on, a couple of Blackcap Babblers were feeding beneath the bushes and a single Senegal Parrot perched nicely for us in the trees.
The area by the hotel wall is always productive and in one tree now we saw several Yellow-crowned Gonoleks, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, African Grey Woodpecker, a couple of African Thrushes and Common Bulbuls.
Nearby, a Northern Black Flycatcher was hawking from the top of some old solar panels where a couple of Laughing Doves were perched. Further down, two Speckled Pigeons flew in and a noisy group Brown Babblers joined them. A few African Palm Swifts hawked round overhead with a single Red-chested Swallow and a flock of Little Swifts much higher in the sky beyond. A young Shikra shot quickly through without stopping but a Pearl-spotted Owlet was more obliging, perched for some time out in the open half way up a tree.
The light was starting to go, so we made our way back up towards the main building. Modou heard Green Woodhoopoe so we diverted across via the other side of the lawn and found two of them in the trees. Eventually they came out and showed well. Two Fork-tailed Drongos appeared too now and we watched them hawking for insects from the treetops in the last of the light.
Everyone wanted a chance to change some money and buy some water so we had a quick walk up to the shops just outside the hotel. That done, after a short break to freshen up, we then met again for a quick drink before dinner down at the pool bar. Dinner was served up in the main restaurant which we had pretty much to ourselves – it is just the start of the holiday season and we seemed to be just about the only guests eating in tonight. After a quick run through the day’s list, a very respectable 32 species already and we had only had about an hour’s birding, it was time to head to bed after a long day. The Gambian Epauletted Fruit Bats were calling in the trees as we walked back to our rooms.
Saturday 16th November
We met for breakfast at 7.00am as the restaurant opened. We wanted to make the most of the cooler early morning so we headed straight outside afterwards to meet up with Modou, Fanta and Alhaji, our driver, and the bus which would accompany us for the next few days. From the hotel it was just a short drive to Kotu Bridge. As we got out of the bus just before the bridge, a Spur-winged Lapwing flew over calling, there were lots of Village Weavers in the trees in the ricefields opposite and Bronze Mannikins dropping down to feed in the edge of the rice. A Red-bellied Paradise-Flycatcher was flitting around in the edge of the mangroves. Beautiful Sunbirds zipped back and forth and occasionally one stopped so we could get a better look at it.
From the bridge, we could see it was high tide. Two Wire-tailed Swallows were perched on one of the dead trees in the water in front and a Western Reef Heron on another. There were a couple of Long-tailed Cormorants in the nearby bushes too. A Pied Kingfisher was fishing from the edge of the mangroves, occasionally dropping down into the water in front, and then a much smaller Malachite Kingfisher appeared and started to do the same.
Several Whimbrels were perched rather precariously on the wires the other side of the bridge and a Common Sandpiper walked up and down along a pipe which also crossed the creek. Both palearctic migrants down here for the winter and finding somewhere to see out the high tide. A couple of Shikras were chasing round over the mangroves further back and then a Swallow-tailed Bee-eater flew in and past us.
Walking back up the road, a Northern Crombec was calling and eventually came out onto the edge of the trees, perching nicely on the wires at one point and showing off its very short tail. A Black-necked Weaver flew across the road carrying food which it took into a nearby nest.
There were a couple of Great White Egrets in the fields now and a Senegal Coucal perched very nicely for us in a nearby tree. A Hamerkop flew over. As we walked up the road, two Vinaceous Doves dropped down to feed on the verge in front of us, with several Laughing Doves. A Western Grey Plantain-eater perched in a tree across the other side. As we turned down towards the Cycle Track, a Variable Sunbird appeared briefly out of the bushes.
We walked down the track towards the Palm Beach hotel first, where a Pied Crow was perched in a palm basking in the morning sunshine. Another Shikra flew across and this time landed briefly in the edge of the mangroves so we could get the scopes on it.
As we approached the hotel, two Pied Kingfishers came over our heads and seemed to disappear off towards the mouth of the creek. Scanning from the balcony, we could see one hovering out over the water but the second then reappeared and landed on the top of an electricity post right above our heads. It was quite breezy this morning and we could see lots of terns offshore, beyond the sandbar, though they were distant from here. We picked up a darker bird chasing them, a juvenile Pomarine Skua.
Walking back, a Nile Monitor was resting on a snag in a small pool by the track. A couple of Spur-winged Lapwings were out in the middle of a marshy area where we could get proper views of them in the scopes now.
We turned onto the Cycle Track and set off down between the bushes. There were quite a lot of people along here today – a school group out looking at the wildlife, a couple of joggers and people just walking past. The trees seemed rather quiet, but we did find a couple of Grey-backed Cameropteras and some Ring-necked Parakeets. Two young Green Woodhoopoes flew in.
We tried the path down to the pool behind the old hotel, but found a large pig pen had been built here and there was still too much water in the pool to be able to get round the side. A Woodland Kingfisher was perched in a nearby tree. Lots of Village Weavers were gathered in a large bush where they had made their nests and while we were looking through them a male Little Weaver appeared too, clearly very much smaller. A few Bronze Mannikins and Beautiful Sunbirds flew in and out and a Hamerkop came overhead.
Walking back along the Cycle Track, a Western Subalpine Warbler was feeding in one of the acacia trees now but typically kept to the densest patches of thorns and foliage and made itself very difficult to see. We made our way back down the road to the bus to fill up our water bottles. Another Senegal Coucal was out in the fields.
The plan was to take the path in along the edge of the mangroves, but the tide still hadn’t gone out far enough and the start was still under water. A Western Reef Heron and a couple of Spur-winged Lapwings were in the field by the start of the track and several Red-billed Firefinches and Red-cheeked Cordonbleus flew up from the side of the road.
We were heading for the sewage works, so we had to go the other way, round via the road. As we walked in through the trees, a Pearl-spotted Owlet started calling behind us. We followed the sound, and the noise of all the Common Bulbuls mobbing it, and eventually found it perched in a tree above our heads.
Approaching the first pool, the bank was lined with Spur-winged Lapwings and a Black-winged Stilt and a Common Sandpiper circled round over the water.
A pair of Red-necked Falcons was perched in the top of a dead tree, beyond the furthest pool. A bit distant from here, but we all had a quick look through the scopes, then walked on down the track between the pools to try to get a closer view. Our first African Mourning Dove of the trip was perched on the metal rafters of a nearby abandoned building.
By the time we got down to the crossroads in the middle of the pools, the falcons had flown. There were lots of Cattle Egrets lining the banks of the next pool, along with a couple of Squacco Herons and two Grey Herons. A single Green Sandpiper was perched on a low concrete wall in amongst the egrets. Scanning round, the Red-necked Falcons reappeared in the trees off to our left and we had some much better views in the scopes now from here.
We took the path down through the cashew trees and as we came out into the fields beyond we had a brief glimpse of a cuckoo fly back round behind us. A pair of Fine-spotted Woodpeckers was in one of the trees here too and at least one of them flew back the same way. We decided to walk back up and see if we could find them again.
As we came out into a freshly cleared area planted with young trees, there were lots of birds here. Several Splendid Sunbirds flitted around in the bushes, including a couple of stunning males, along with Beautiful Sunbirds and a selection of the usual Red-billed Firefinches and Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus.
Two African Paradise-Flycatchers flew in, we could see their black breasts. An inquisitive Senegal Coucal came in quietly through the branches to check out what the commotion was all about. An African Grey Woodpecker appeared in the trees above our heads but there was no further sign of the Fine-spotted Woodpeckers.
Back out on the edge of the sewage works, a pair of African Grey Hornbills flew round the edge of the trees ahead of us and landed briefly to peck at some dead branches where we could get them in the scopes.
We took the path back down through the cashew trees again and out into the fields beyond, where a Greater Blue-eared Starling was perched in the top of the bushes. Further down, we could see a couple of Blue-bellied Rollers flying round between the trees. When we got down there they flew in and landed in the top of a dead palm trunk behind us where we watched them mating.
The tide had gone out enough so we could get through on the path round the edge of the mangroves now and back out to the road by the bridge. The Red-billed Firefinches and Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus by the road flew up again from the verge but this time dropped back down again right at our feet.
There was still a lot of water in the creek from the bridge and much the same birds as we had seen earlier so we decided to make our way back to the hotel for lunch. As we walked along the road two Little Bee-eaters flew over and scanning the ricefields we found at least seven now flying round and landing in the small trees, nice views through the scopes.
The Hooded Vultures had just been fed on the open area next to where the bus was parked and were still picking over the scraps.
We drove the short distance back to the hotel and after dropping off our gear in our rooms, we met down at the beach bar for lunch. A Broad-billed Roller was flying in and out of the trees just behind. It was surprisingly busy here, particularly given how empty the restaurant had been last night, but thankfully we had plenty of time today. After lunch, we had time for a short break before we met again out by the bus. For those who wanted, another opportunity to wander round the grounds and photograph some of the regular birds here, with lots of Hooded Vultures on the lawn and White-crowned Robin-Chat singing in the bushes.
The plan was to explore the golf course this afternoon, but we drove back to the bridge first to walk in from that direction. A blue-black male Village Indigobird appeared in the trees by the road as we got out of the bus. Down at the bridge, the tide was still going out slowly. There were a lot more Spur-winged Lapwings out on the mud now and a Striated Heron was lurking in the edge of the mangroves before it crept deeper in out of view, but surprisingly no sign of any Thick-knees.
Taking the same path in through the mangroves where we had come back this morning, there were lots of Atlantic Mudskippers and West African Fiddler Crabs on the wet mud now. A pair of Woodland Kingfishers was perched in the bushes.
Rather than take the path up through the fields, instead we continued on round through the mangroves and up onto the boardwalk. A pair of Yellow-fronted Canaries perched in the bushes and an Osprey flew over behind us. We could hear lots of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters calling and as we crossed the bridge over the creek, several came over hawking above us and more were high in the sky behind. A couple of Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters flew across and we found them perched in the trees just beyond the bridge, where they were joined in the branches by several Little Bee-eaters too.
A single Wattled Lapwing had appeared on the mud in the creek which we got in the scopes and looking closely at it we could see it had a damaged leg. We walked up and out onto the edge of the golf course beyond, where we were surprised to find quite a few golfers today – often it is deserted here, but it was a Saturday. Modou was whistling the call of Pearl-spotted Owl and when one responded we found it in a tree on the edge of the fairway.
Several Yellow-billed Shrikes and White-billed Buffalo Weavers were in the bushes nearby. A Violet Turaco flew over and landed in a tall palm back behind us. We managed to get it in the scope, but it quickly climbed through the back before flying out and disappearing off over the creek. Not great views, but hopefully we would see more later in the week. As we continued on round between the holes, we could hear Senegal Parrots calling. We tried to walk over for a closer look but more golfers were coming, so we had to cut across to the next fairway instead. A group of cows came out from behind the trees, followed by a small group of Cattle Egrets. One way to keep the fairways trimmed!
On the edge of the golf course, in the start of the ricefields, we could see a Black-headed Heron so we stopped to get it in the scopes. A Double-spurred Francolin appeared in the grass next to it, but as we walked a little closer it ducked down and crept away.
There were several more Lapwings here, both Spur-winged and another couple of Wattled Lapwing too.
A large group of starlings in the trees beyond included several Splendid Starlings, as well as the more regular Bronze-tailed and Greater Blue-eared Starlings.
Walking on round the golf course, we found an African Harrier-Hawk in the trees next. It was keeping well-hidden at first, flying a couple of times and only giving briefer views as it landed before disappearing in. When it flew off more determinedly through the trees we assumed it had gone but further on we found it again perched in the open in a dead tree preening. Now we finally had good views of it until another golfer coming down the fairway hit his ball into the rough, and the Harrier-Hawk was flushed by his caddie searching for it.
Just beyond, our first Fanti Sawwing of the trip flew over. It seemed to be going quiet now and it was time to start heading back. Another Pearl-spotted Owlet started calling, and this one came out and perched nicely in the open in a tree right next to us, the best views yet with no branches in the way.
We walked off the golf course and made our way back out through the ricefields. A Grey-backed Cameroptera was in some bushes with a couple of Bronze Mannikins and then a Tawny-flanked Prinia appeared in the grass by the path. Another Double-spurred Francolin was calling, but according to Modou it was probably caged and used as a decoy for trapping them to stop them feeding on the rice crop. As we came back out to the edge of the road, a Striated Heron flew up from one of the wetter fields.
The bus was waiting for us on the main road and it was just a short drive back to the hotel. After a break to freshen up, we met again for a drink at the Pool Bar. Dinner was served in the main restaurant again and afterwards we sat for a while and went through the day’s list before retiring.
Sunday 17th November
After breakfast, we headed outside where several Bronze-tailed Starlings were on the low roofs of the shops in front. Modou Taal and the bus were waiting for us and as we set off several House Sparrows were feeding on the side of the road just outside the hotel.
It was only a short drive this morning down to Brufut where we would spend the first part of the day, picking up Fanta on the way. We turned off the main road onto the dusty streets down through village and out past the rubbish dump where lots of Cattle Egrets gathered.
As we got out of the bus, several Fanti Sawwings were flying round the fruiting tree the other side of the road and a couple of African Green Pigeons flew out. Modou heard Violet Turaco calling, so we walked a short way along the road and could just see it in a large tree further back in the gardens. It flew out and landed in the same fruiting tree where we had parked, nice views now in the scopes.
Three more African Green Pigeons appeared in the top of the tree too, out in the sunshine and perched very obligingly for us. Nice to get such good views of what can sometimes be an elusive species.
We were joined now by Madi, our local forest guide who would spend the morning with us, and headed down the track opposite between half-built houses. There were several Red-billed Firefinches on the track, a couple of Village Indigobirds on the wires, lots of Village Weavers in and out of the vegetation and two Brown Babblers sunning themselves on one of the low walls.
A couple of Green Monkeys were clattering around in the trees and a Red-bellied Paradise-Flycatcher flicked out briefly. The Violet Turaco was calling and showed itself briefly again.
When we got to the edge of the forest, we scanned the scattered trees in the large communal walled gardens opposite. There were lots of Senegal Parrots and Ring-necked Parakeets flying round and Bronze-tailed and Long-tailed Glossy Starlings in the tops.
We walked a short distance down a narrow path between the forest and the garden wall, but the forest itself was quiet so we turned to head back. A Grey Kestrel had appeared in the edge of the top of one of the trees in the garden now so we stopped to watch it. A large flock of White-billed Buffalo Weavers flew up from the ground below.
Back out to the road, the African Green Pigeons had dropped down a little and were now feeding on the fruits in the tree opposite. We turned and walked slowly up along the road, stopping to watch several Splendid Sunbirds in the bushes. A Lavender Waxbill showed briefly and a Yellow-throated Leaflove called and we had a brief glimpse of it as it flew out of a tree ahead of us.
Taking one of the paths in through the village, between the walls of the gardens and numerous half-built houses, we didn’t have to go too far before we found our first male Northern Red Bishop in one of the overgrown house compounds. There were lots of birds in the weedy vegetation here, finches and mannikins, sunbirds, Village Indigobirds and Northern Grey-headed Sparrows, and Agamas sunning themselves on the breeze block walls.
An African Pied Hornbill flew in and landed in a nearby tree and then a Shikra did the same in a nearby palm.
A Singing Cisticola came out of the vegetation to sing very obligingly for several minutes in a small bush right in front of us.
Then a Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird perched up in the top of a larger bush nearby.
As we walked on, a couple of African Grey Hornbills flew in and landed in front of us. We were looking for Black-winged Bishop but first we found another male Northern Red Bishop which was displaying to its reflection in the mirrored windows of one of the houses. It flew out and performed on the concrete reinforcing bars sticking out of the half-built wall of a nearby house, then returned to the window again. They are often already moulting by this time of year, so it was nice to see some still in full breeding plumage and displaying too. A female Copper Sunbird was feeding in the flowers below.
Just beyond, in another overgrown garden we finally found a smart male Black-winged Bishop too, which eventually perched up nicely. At one point, we had both male Bishops in view at the same time – a Synod?
As we got out of the back of the village, the walled compounds got bigger and the space between them increased until we found ourselves in more open overgrown cultivations. We quickly located our first target here, with several Scarlet-chested Sunbirds including a male which perched rather incongruously on the razorwire on the wall of a nearby garden.
A little further on, an Oriole Warbler was singing in the bushes and eventually showed itself in the top of one of them. While we were watching it, we caught a glimpse of a Black Scimitarbill flying across the track further up so we walked on to look for it.
All we seemed to find initially were several Northern Black Flycatchers but eventually the Black Scimitarbill reappeared too. After following it for a while we had some nice views as it fed in the dead leaves of a palm tree.
Carrying on round on the track, a Yellow-throated Leaflove appeared and we got slightly better views of it this time. We stopped to look at a Swallow-tailed Bee-eater perched in a palm nearby and an African Darter flew high overhead.
Our first Black-billed Wood-Dove flew up and landed low in the bushes beyond. Then a Whistling Cisticola started singing and eventually flew in to perform in the top of a tall palm in front of us.
We had been very successful walking round the village but it was getting hot now and the group was wondering when we would finally get to the drinking pots and get a chance to sit down and enjoy the promised cold drink. Making our way back on a narrow path through the middle, there were lots of Little Bee-eaters in the bushes and we stopped briefly to admire a couple perched obligingly close to the path, catching bees.
As we came onto the main road, Modou was in front and shouted ‘Stone Partridge’. Two were on the far side of the road a little further down but unfortunately not for long as two motorbikes came past and flushed them. They flew back into the edge of the forest beyond before everyone could get onto them.
Finally we arrived at the drinking pots and it was nice to sit down in the shade. There were lots of doves, weavers, Grey-headed Sparrows and Common Bulbuls coming down to the pools and pots in front of the benches and one of the locals put some seed down on the ground between. It did the trick – very quickly, what were presumably the two Stone Partridges we had just seen on the road appeared out of the undergrowth at the back and started to feed out in the open. Great views of what is more usually a species which is just glimpsed, like our experience earlier.
An African Pygmy Kingfisher appeared in the far corner and kept plunging into one of the small pools then flying back up into the trees to preen. A Black-billed Wood-Dove dropped in for a drink and several Lavendar Waxbills came in to bathe.
A large German group appeared, so we decided to head into the forest quickly. Brufut is normally a good site for Long-tailed Nightjar but the forest guides had not been able to find any this year. Until this morning! A local collecting water from a nearby well had flushed one from the trees beside the path and the guides had relocated it. We were led down along a path and then one by one in under the trees to where the Long-tailed Nightjar was roosting in the leaf litter. It was almost impossible to see until Madi pointed it out carefully, fantastic camouflage.
We were going to head further in to look for owls next, but we found the German group on the path ahead of us so we went back to the drinking pots first. A Blue-breasted Kingfisher was bathing now in the small pool in the far corner and when it eventually moved on a Yellow-throated Leaflove appeared. Much better views not than we had earlier, we could really see its lemon yellow throat.
A Guinea (Green) Turaco started to drop down through the trees at the back now, but something spooked it before it came out to drink. We waited a while longer but it just wouldn’t come out. A pair of Laughing Doves were sunning themselves along the edge of the clearing and an African Thrush came down to drink.
Eventually we had to go off to look for the owls. Madi lead us back into the forest and down a different track which came to a dead end below a very tall grey plum tree. Looking up, we could see two pairs of eyes with pink eyelids looking back down at us, two Verreaux’s Eagle Owls. They were very hard to see in the leaves unless you were standing in just the right place, but we set up a scope and everyone had a good look in turn.
Back to the drinking pots, apparently the Guinea Turaco had just showed again briefly but had disappeared by the time we got settled down. We waited again to see if it might appear once more but we were out of luck. A couple of Oriole Warblers came in to drink. Then we had to tear ourselves away as we were already late for lunch.
It was thankfully just a short drive from here to Tanji Ecolodge. We sat down on the chairs overlooking a shallow square concrete pool where a few birds started to come down to drink, despite six or seven cats hanging around nearby. There were lots of Common Bulbuls and an African Thrush and then a Snowy-crowned Robin Chat came in slowly too through the tangled trees behind and dropped down to drink. A Garden Warbler appeared briefly in the branches above the pool and an African Pygmy Kingfisher was in the trees behind.
Lunch was served now, a buffet of grilled chicken and lady fish with onion sauce, shrimp, rice and French fries, and salad. Thankfully we managed to finish our main course without getting disturbed and we were just eating the watermelon and papaya which followed when a Western Bluebill appeared in the trees, a smart male. Our main target here, it was typically very nervous at first, lurking in the tangled branches behind for some time before it eventually came in to drink quickly.
After lunch, we had a short drive down to the nearby fishing village. Holding our noses, we got off the minibus and walked down past the piles of rubbish, through the fish smoking sheds where lots of small fish were being smoked and dried, and out onto the beach beyond. The tide was going out and the first thing which struck us was the huge amounts of rubbish strewn all across the beach. Looking beyond that, there were lots of Grey-hooded Gulls down by the edge of the water and a succession of Caspian Terns flying up and down or diving into the water beyond.
We walked a short way down along the beach away from the village, past three Bar-tailed Godwits feeding on the shore. An Osprey was flying out over the sea and plunged in to catch a fish itself. There were a few Western Reef Herons and Great White Egrets feeding out in the shallow water and lots of Caspian Terns gathered out on a small sandbar just beyond. Scanning through, we managed to find a few Sandwich Terns and a single orange-billed West African Crested (formerly Royal) Tern in with them, as well as a few Lesser Black-backed Gulls.
There is a much bigger sandbar distantly offshore and scanning across we could make out a much larger gathering of gulls on here, as well as a large group of Great (or White-breasted) Cormorants and three or four Pink-backed Pelicans. We could see them through the scope, even if they were a long way off. A Pied Kingfisher flew in over the beach and another was hovering out over the sea.
Back to the minibus and we drove on a little further south to Tujerang, turning off the main road and down the track towards the beach, stopping at the top of the ridge before. The main species we hoped to find here was Chestnut-bellied Starling, so we got out of the minibus and started to scan. There were just a few distant Glossy Starlings at first, although we did find a Double-spurred Francolin standing more obligingly on a low wall.
One of the group picked up a bird which flew up onto the top of a bush and even though we were looking into the sun and it was some way off we could see it was a Chestnut-bellied Starling. After a quick look through the scopes, we decided to walk round for a better view and as we did so we realised there were actually lots of Chestnut-bellied Starlings in the bushes just beyond the ridge and feeding on the ground just beyond. Some flew over our heads and landed the other side of the track where we had much better views with the sun behind us now. A large flock of Piapiacs flew up into a tree just behind and a Crested Lark was singing further down behind the beach, which we eventually managed to get in the scope too.
Walking back up to the top of the ridge, we took a track which led down parallel to the beach. An Abyssinian Roller was perched in a tree out in the overgrown cultivations beside the track and eventually allowed nice close views and an African Harrier Hawk flew across behind.
We could see a distant Osprey in a tree, so we walked on for a closer look. A couple of British flavissima Western Yellow Wagtails landed on the track ahead of us and a Black-crowned Tchagra was singing from the top of a tree. The area between the track and the sea has been mined for sand and in the open ground above the mine workings we found a couple of Black-headed Lapwings, a nice bonus as it is a species we don’t often see these days down on the coast.
Scanning the bushes, we found a couple of Yellow-fronted Canaries and Little Weavers. The light was beginning to go and birds were starting to head off to roost. Flocks of gulls and cormorants and several Caspian Terns flew north along the coast and a couple of Black-headed Herons flew past over the trees, followed by two Pink-backed Pelicans.
It was time for us to head back. Being a Sunday evening, we thought the traffic would be light but it was much busier than expected. We had a bit of a wait at a checkpoint along the coast road and then hit congestion as we got back to the new main road to Banjul, so it was already dark when we got back to the hotel. We had time for a quick break to freshen up before we met for a drink down at the pool bar. The buffet dinner was served here tonight, accompanied by some local music and dancing, and afterwards we retired to reception where it was quieter to do the list before turning in.
Monday 18th November
Modou Taal was waiting for us outside after breakfast and the minibus pulled up as we came out. Our destination for the day was Farasutu, about an hour’s drive from the hotel, and we picked up Fanta on the way there. We turned off the main road and drove down through the village where all the children waved to us as we passed, stopping in the overgrown cultivations beyond. There were lots of Cattle Egrets in the fields and small flocks of finches, bishops and Grey-headed Sparrows. An Abyssinian Roller was perched on a nearby acacia.
We walked in along a small path through the fields and caught a glimpse of a male Pin-tailed Whydah with full tail streamers flying up out of the vegetation in the distance so we walked over for a closer look. There were actually lots of Pin-tailed Whydahs here, mostly females, juveniles and males which had lost their tails, but at least two males still with their improbably long tails.
At this time of year, we rarely see males still with their tails and even better one started to display, flying across between the small acacias flapping its long tail streamers behind it. The rains were apparently late this year and as we would see this week there is still more water around than normal at this time, which presumably explains why the Whydah’s and Bishops are still breeding later this season.
We were joined now by one of the local forest guides, Bob, who would help us find some of the local specialities. Modou heard a Striped Kingfisher calling, so we walked back to look at that as a female Dideric Cuckoo flew out and landed on a nearby bush.
While doing so, we flushed a couple of Four-banded Sandgrouse from the field which landed again not from us. We didn’t know where to look first now! The field was too overgrown to get much of a view of the Sandgrouse on the ground and they eventually flew again and disappeared over the edge of the field. After which, we turned our attention back to the Dideric Cuckoo which we got in the scopes.
A Tawny-flanked Prinia was in the taller vegetation at the edge of the field and a couple of Willow Warblers were feeding in the acacias. Two Bearded Barbets flew over and landed on a tree further back.
Then Bob shouted that a Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle was flying over behind us, pursued by three Pied Crows, so we all turned to watch. A Rufous-crowned Roller was perched on the top of a tree in the distance so we started to walk over for a closer look, stopping to look at a juvenile Woodchat Shrike which flew up into a bare thorny bush in front of us. We eventually got some better views of the Roller but it too was being harassed by Pied Crows and chased round.
A Double-spurred Francolin was perched on a low wall some way off and as we walked over towards that we flushed another pair of Four-banded Sandgrouse. They only flew a very short distance and we could just see them walking away through the vegetation. When they flew again, this time they landed in a more open area and walking round slowly we found them hiding on the ground where we could get great views of them in the scopes.
A male Variable Sunbird flew up and started singing from the top of a low acacia bush just behind us giving us some great views.
It was warming up now and the Yellow-billed Kites and Hooded Vultures were starting to circle up all around. Scanning the skies we picked up first a Palm-nut Vulture distantly over the forest circling with several Hooded Vultures, then a Woolly-necked Stork flying over. Bob picked up a couple of Mottled Spinetails which flew over too and another Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle circled up over the forest at the back.
Back out onto one of the tracks, a rather battered Citrus Swallowtail butterfly posed nicely – a nice change from just flying past. We stopped again in a smaller more open area with some larger trees and found a Black-crowned Tchagra was in a large bush.
Modou was whistling the call of Pearl-spotted Owlet again and we waited to see if any small birds would come in. It seemed like all that was going to respond were the usual sunbirds, sparrows and weavers, although we did have nice views of a pair of Little Weavers perched beside a Village Weaver for size comparison. We were just starting to move off when we noticed a Melodious Warbler coming in from the back and it stopped to feed for some time in a dense tangle of dead branches low down. There are usually lots of palearctic migrants here, warblers which breed in Europe and come down to West Africa for the winter, but there seemed to be fewer than normal, perhaps again due to the late rains.
We followed the track round to the shade of the giant baobab trees nearby, one reportedly being the largest in the Gambia. The bus met us there and we had a chance to fill up our water bottles before Bob led us off along another track to look for owls. There were lots of butterflies along the weedy flowering verges and a young Dark Chanting Goshawk was perched in the top of a nearby tree.
Turning in through a small plantation, we found ourselves looking up at two roosting Greyish Eagle Owls. They occasionally turned to look at us, but generally were pretty unphased by everyone looking up at them from below.
It was hot now and time for a break so we walked back out of the plantation and Bob led us over on the shortcut through the fields to the forest entrance. We sat down on the concrete benches overlooking the drinking pots and had a well-earned cold drink (or hot drink if preferred!). There were a few birds coming in to drink, mostly Firefinches and Cordonbleus, but several Black-rumped Waxbills which were hiding at first in the tangled branches behind eventually came out too. A pair of Blue-spotted Wood-Doves dropped down by the water trough at the back but the Snowy-crowned Robin Chat remained in the shadowy understorey of the trees behind.
Suitably rested and refreshed, Bob led us into the forest. We stopped to look at a pair of Brown-throated Wattle-Eyes which were flitting around in the trees over the path before we came out by some small pools on the edge of the mangroves.
The main target here was White-backed Night Heron but we were distracted at first by a Giant Kingfisher which flew round calling. We then turned our attention back to the Night Herons, two of which were roosting in a low tree just across one of the pools from us. They were very hard to see until you knew where they were but then we had a very good view of them in the scopes.
Several Senegal Thick-knees were standing on the back edge of the pool behind us and a Striated Heron appeared out of the far corner. The Giant Kingfisher flew round calling again before eventually landing in the top of some nearby mangroves where we could finally get a proper look at it, a giant of a kingfisher indeed!
We were about to walk back into the forest when a Guinea Turaco started calling in the trees high above us. For a while, all we got were glimpses of it through the branches or flying across overhead before it landed in a nearby palm, head and shoulders at least out in full view. Another stunning bird and great to catch up with it properly after frustratingly brief and partial views yesterday. When it flew back up into the tops we left it and headed back through the forest. Like buses, another Guinea Turaco was briefly in the trees above the path now.
After saying our goodbyes and thanks to Bob, we got back in the minibus for the short drive over to the edge of the nearby creek, the last part of the journey expertly navigated by our driver in reverse down a narrow track as there was nowhere to turn round at the end. We walked down to the jetty which is now much improved from when we arrived two years ago to find it still being built, with a new gate and handrails, proper planks replacing the bamboo where they ran out of wood initially and floating pontoons at the end.
The boat came over to pick us up for the very short journey across the creek to Baobab Island. After disembarking the other side, we walked over to the open sided restaurant where several Mauritian Tomb Bats were still roosting at the top of the central pole supporting the palm-leaf roof. It was time for a break for lunch.
After we had finished eating, Modou led us outside to show us the African Scops Owl which was roosting in its usual spot in the edge of the mangroves. Fill the frame views in the scopes, it watched us for a minute before yawning and going back to dozing with one eye open.
The island is only small so we set off for the short walk round under the large baobab trees. Fanta found a fallen baobab fruit which she broke open and gave us bits to try. A male Northern Puffback was high in the trees above us but gradually dropped down for a better look. It was joined by a female and then the male started to display, puffing out its white back and belly feathers making itself look a bit like a powder puff. Hence the name puffback – great to watch.
Two large Nile Monitors walked across under the trees and a couple of Green Monkeys chased round further back. Two Bearded Barbets flew past but didn’t stop and several Senegal Parrots were in the trees above. A Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird showed nicely in the lower acacias.
Down by the edge of the creek we counted twenty four Senegal Thick-knees and a single Whimbrel with them over the other side.
We walked round to the jetty where there were lots of Mudskippers and Fiddler Crabs on the wet mud exposed by the now falling tide. The crabs appeared to be waving us goodbye with their large claws as the boat came round to pick us up for the short journey back to the mainland. As we motored across, three Common Sandpipers flew round calling and a Malachite Kingfisher shot past.
It was just a short drive now in the bus to the drinking pots where we would spend the remainder of the afternoon. We walked in through the trees to the hide and settled ourselves on the wooden benches. At first there were the usual finches and weavers coming in to drink, along with a couple of Yellow-fronted Canaries and both Black-billed and Blue-spotted Wood-Doves.
We found a Pied Flycatcher flitting around in the open trees off to one side and a brief male Common Redstart, both palearctic migrants here for the winter. We don’t often see Pied Flycatchers here at this time of year, as they normally through on their way further south in September. A Snowy-crowned Robin Chat was lurking in the shade under the trees at the back and a pair of Yellow-crowned Gonoleks came in for a drink and then hopped across on the ground below the pots.
This is a good place to see honeyguides and we didn’t have too long to wait before a male Greater Honeyguide came in to drink from the pots first.
A little while later, a couple of the scarcer Spotted Honeyguide then flew in too, the main target bird here. Two honeyguides for the price of one!
The Violet Turaco made us wait though. It arrived earlier and started to come down nervously through the branches above the pots, but then seemed to get spooked and climbed back up out of view. It lurked up above for most of the time we were in the hide but it was only as we almost had to leave that it finally started to descend again. Still it came down slowly, stopping for some time half in view in the branches before finally coming down to the pot to drink. Stunning views now fully out in the open, when it had drunk its fill it even posed on the branch next to the pot for us before flying back up into the trees.
It was time for us to go now with about an hour’s drive back to the hotel and thankfully the traffic wasn’t too bad tonight. We had time to change some money or buy provisions from the shop outside the hotel and then freshen up before dinner. We met for drinks down at the pool bar where the buffet was served again. The entertainment tonight was provided by a group of local drummers and dancers. It started as we were half way through eating and was far too loud for conversation, so once again we headed up to reception as soon as we had finished to go through the list afterwards before turning in for the night.
Tuesday 19th November
A change of guides today, we were met outside after breakfast by Modou Jarju who would lead us for the next three days, together with Fanta again. It was a longer drive this morning, down to the village of Sohm on the southern border with Senegal and it was already starting to warm up when we arrived. Several Mottled Spinetails flew round over the bushes as we drove in down the long dusty track. We got out of the minibus and walked in through some overgrown scrub, stopping briefly to look at a flock of Glossy Starlings in the trees which included several Lesser Blue-eared Starlings.
Modou lined the group up on one side of the track and put his speaker in the bushes on the other side. Birds are attracted to mob predators like owls, so he played the sound of a group of birds mobbing while at the same time he whistled the call of Pearl-spotted Owlet. Soon the bushes were full of birds, Sunbirds and Cordonbleus. A female Vitelline Masked Weaver came in, followed by African Yellow White-eye and Red-winged Warbler, all new for the trip. A Black-crowned Tchagra made its way quietly through the bushes behind us.
We walked on a little further and tried again. This time a smart male Vitelline Masked Weaver came in along with a pair of Copper Sunbirds.
A Red-necked Falcon appeared a couple of times in the top of a tall acacia further back and in between its visits we could see a Common Whitethroat in there too. As we walked back to the minibus, a bright red male Black-winged Bishop was perched in the top of a small bush next to the track.
We drove a little further on and stopped again by a small block of trees. Walking down the side track alongside the wood, Modou whistled the call of Pearl-spotted Owlet again and birds started to appear from the trees. An African Golden Oriole gave some frustratingly brief views before flying out over the track. A Lesser Honeyguide came out too, but unfortunately did not stop and disappeared off over the trees the other side. A Gabar Goshawk flew over, followed by two Shikras and then a pair of Mosque Swallows.
A real Pearl-spotted Owlet responded and came out to investigate the noise, followed by a trail of Sunbirds and a Senegal Eremomela, though the latter was high in the trees and the views were not the best. As we walked back, several raptors were starting to circle up over the open bush beyond, and scanning through a kettle of Hooded Vultures we found both an African Harrier Hawk and a Wahlberg’s Eagle with them, though they were rather distant.
Back in the minibus, we stopped again a short distance further down the main track by a wetter area. As we walked in off the road, an African Darter flew up from back in the trees. Again, lots of birds appeared but much more variety this time. As well as the finches and sunbirds, we had much better views of several Senegal Eremomelas now. An Orange-cheeked Waxbill appeared briefly, as did a Northern Crombec and a Pied Flycatcher and a juvenile Klaas’s Cuckoo perched obligingly in the trees behind.
An African Grey Woodpecker flew in to a dead tree above us, followed by the highlight of the stop here, a group of punk-styled White-crested Helmetshrikes. Smart birds!
Moving on again, we drove further down the track. Modou stopped to look at something and we noticed a Long-crested Eagle perched in the top of a small tree nearby. We disembarked for a closer look and surprisingly it didn’t fly off.
This is always a good area for raptors and a little further on, a Lizard Buzzard was perched on the wires by the track. Again we all got off the bus and it stayed where it was giving us great views.
Continuing on, we turned off the main track down under some power lines and came out in an area of open savannah woodland. A flock of Piapiacs and an Abyssinian Roller were perched in the shade in a nearby acacia and as we walked through the grass we flushed several Wattled Lapwings.
In the next tree back, we found a Brubru and beyond that, while we were looking for a Western Bonelli’s Warbler a bright male Pygmy Sunbird appeared along with another African Grey Woodpecker. We eventually found the Bonelli’s Warbler and there were several Willow Warblers feeding in the trees here too. A young African Jacana was walking through the lilypads in the flooded grass beyond the trees and a couple of Black-headed Herons flew round above.
Modou heard the call of White-shouldered Black-Tit nearby so we walked over to look for it. A pair appeared briefly in the top of the bushes but not all the group could get onto them before they disappeared. They seemed to have moved on but after we had turned our attention to looking for other birds Modou heard one again and it showed a little better now in the same bush where the two had been earlier.
A Cardinal Woodpecker appeared in the top of a dead tree behind. There were lots of Hooded Vultures soaring up in the sky now and the Pink-backed Pelicans drifted high overhead too.
Modou tried the sound of Pearl-spotted Owlet and birds mobbing it again and several Pin-tailed Whydahs came in, including a smart black-and-white male still with its long tail which was displaying to the females. A couple of Village Indigobirds were perched in a nearby acacia.
It was midday and getting too hot now, so we started to make our way back to the bus. A couple of Lanner Falcons circled up ahead of us and a Senegal Batis was in the thicker bushes by the track and perched briefly in the tops.
We cut back out into the open grass in front of the bus where a large group of cows was now being herded through. While we were checking their backs unsuccessfully for Oxpeckers, two African Hawk Eagles circled overhead, mobbed at one point by one of the Lanners. A species we do not see so often down here closer to the coast.
It was time for lunch, and as we made our way back out a Stone Partridge ran along the track under the power lines ahead of us. We followed the dusty roads back out to the tarmac and then drove the short distance to Jamora Lodge. After a welcome cold drink, we were served a delicious buffet of fish and chicken with rice and peanut sauce, spicy prawns, chips and salad, followed by watermelon and banana. For those who wanted it, there was also the chance to try the local hibiscus juice.
After lunch, it was still too hot to do much so there was a chance to rest and relax. A Coffee Bee Hawkmoth (aka Oriental Bee Hawkmoth) was on the floor of the lodge but sadly seemed to be unable to fly, so we put in in some bushes where at least it wouldn’t be trodden on.
There were still a few birds to see in the grounds of the lodge and the edge of the ricefields beyond. A couple of Hamerkops flew over and one perched on a post by the gate. A pair of Bearded Barbets flew in and one landed in a tree in the fields where we could get it in the scope. There were two Yellow-billed Shrikes in a nearby palm and despite were keeping to the shade they were hot too – we could see them panting.
The Village Weavers had built an impressive high rise of nests in a tree beyond the accommodation huts and several smart males were perched around their nests. An Osprey drifted past and a mixed flock of swifts came over high, a mixture of African Palm and Pallid Swifts.
We went for a short walk down through the ricefields to the edge of the nearby mangroves, where we stood in the shade of the boat shelter to scan. There were a few waders here on the mud, lots of Senegal Thick-knees, a few Spur-winged and a single Wattled Lapwing and a couple of Whimbrel. A lone Common Redshank appeared with them and was then joined by a Common Greenshank.
We could hear Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters calling and a couple drifted very high overhead. Several Pied Kingfishers were out in the mangroves, perched in the bushes and occasionally diving into the shallow water below, and one then flew in and landed right in front of us. It too was panting because of the heat. A Palm-nut Vulture flew in right towards us and circled low in front of us.
As we walked back up to the lodge, one of the Bearded Barbets flew in again.
Back in the minibus, we set off on the long drive back but as it was still a bit early we decided to make one last stop on the way at Farasutu again. We parked in the overgrown cultivations beyond the village, where we had started yesterday and the Abyssinian Roller was still in the same trees nearby. Walking in through the fields, we flushed a Double-spurred Francolin which flew off and landed again behind us. It was starting to cool down a bit now, the heat was much less intense and the birds were more active again too.
Modou put his speaker in a small acacia by the weedy edge and we stood in the shade of a larger tree a short distance away. The usual sunbirds and finches quickly appeared, along with a few Pin-tailed Whydah’s and Northern Red Bishops. A pair of Northern Black Flycatchers and a Snowy-crowned Robin Chat flew in and out of the taller trees beyond and an African Pygmy Kingfisher landed in one of the small acacias in the field in front of us.
A juvenile Yellow Penduline-Tit appeared in the tall vegetation on the edge of the field, with just a small amount of yellow on its throat. It was hard to see at first, feeding in the undergrowth, before it flew out and landed in one of the acacias. A scarce bird so a good one to catch up with here. A Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle drifted high overhead.
We walked across to the next field over and Modou set up his speaker again in a dead tree by an area of thicker bushes. Several Northern Grey-headed Sparrows came in first, along with the usual Sunbirds and Cordonbleus. A couple of Little Weavers joined them and a Snowy-crowned Robin Chat.
A Fine-spotted Woodpecker flew in to the dead tree above but we were then distracted by a Viellot’s Barbet which flew past. We thought we might have to make do with flight views only but Modou managed to call it back in and it perched in the top of the dead tree in the low afternoon light, where it was then joined by three more Viellot’s Barbets!
The Fine-spotted Woodpecker reappeared and then a Eurasian Wryneck came in to investigate too. A Dark Chanting Goshawk landed in the top of a large tree a little further back.
It was time to leave and Modou was just about to retrieve his speaker when a Western Olivaceous Warbler flew in and disappeared into the back of the thicker bushes. It refused to come out for some time and instead we had to make do with a couple of Melodious Warblers and a pair of Red-winged Warblers. The Western Olivaceous Warbler was still there but all we had were some brief views of it half hidden in the branches. Just when we thought it would never come it, it flew down into a tangle of bare branches at the bottom of the dead tree where we could see it. On the way back to the bus a Zitting Cisticola was perched in a bush by the track.
It took about an hour to drive to the hotel again and it was already dark by the time we got back. We still had time to freshen up before we met for drinks down at the pool bar. The buffet was served there again and although the musical entertainment tonight was Western, at least it wasn’t as loud as last night!
Wednesday 20th November
Our destination for this morning was Pirang, about an hour’s drive away, and we were met outside by Modou Jarju again along with Fanta and Alhaji with the bus. When we got to Pirang, we turned off the main road through the village and out the other side, then down along the track to the old shrimp farm.
A Long-crested Eagle flew past and landed on the top of a nearby tree, so when we got out we had planned to put the scopes straight on the eagle. Instead, an African Sacred Ibis flew over and landed in a palm further back, a new bird for the trip, so we decided to have a look at that first. A Gull-billed Tern flew in and circled round over the nearby pools.
As we started to walk down the track into the shrimp farm, a couple of West African Swallows flew over. There were more further up by one of the bridges, including a pair perched on a bush with nest material. A Grey Kestrel flew away over entrance track and a Striated Heron and a Malachite Kingfisher were in the bushes by the first channel.
The new birds started to come thick and fast now. Turning onto the first bund, which was more overgrown, we found several Black-headed Weavers in the bushes.
A male Black-faced Quailfinch flew up from the edge and landed again on the track further ahead of us. It was hard to see at first, behind some tall vegetation growing in the middle of the bund, but then it flew again round past us and landed behind where the track was more open. Much better views now as it fed on the edge of the track.
A Western Marsh Harrier drifted over the pools beyond and two Black Herons flew over. A Pink-backed Pelican flapped slowly past, the first of several today, and a distant Palm-nut Vulture came up over the mangroves beyond the pools.
The Long-crested Eagle was still on the same tree where we had seen it land earlier, but we were much closer to it now on the bund, and in better light with the sun behind us. Great views now through the scopes. A Brown-necked Parrot flew over in the distance, back towards the edge of the village, and Modou spotted two green pigeons land in the top of a very distant tree. We expected them to be African but when we got them in the scopes, we could see they were actually Bruce’s Green Pigeons. Another species we don’t see often and a very nice bonus!
One of the main draws here are the waders and we started to find some on the next compartment over, several Black-winged Stilts, Whimbrel, Greenshank and Redshank, a Grey Plover and a couple of Ringed Plover. As we started to walk up, two Wood Sandpipers dropped in too. An obliging Striated Heron was standing motionless just the other side of the bund.
Both an African Spoonbill and a Spur-winged Goose flew past.
A pair of Wire-tailed Swallows were perched on a small bush on the edge of the bund and stayed put as we walked almost right up to them. The first Western Yellow Wagtail of the morning flew over and an Osprey came up from the trees in distance. There were lots of Senegal Thick-knees on the far end of the bund which flew up as we approached but landed again on the bank on the far side of the larger channel just beyond.
After walking along to the next bridge, we crossed over the channel and turned down the path along the far side. We had seen lots of West African Crocodile tracks crossing the bunds and now Fanta spotted one in the water in the channel. We could just see the top of its head sticking out before it dived. A Crested Lark was singing from one of the bunds between the pools.
We could hear Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters calling, and looking ahead we could now see several on perched on the bushes on the side of the bund. Walking on slowly, they allowed us to get very close, two adults and three juveniles, before they eventually flew. A small flock of Pallid Swifts came over the pools, much lower than the ones we had seen previously, and at least three House Martins were with them. Lots of Crotalaria Moths fluttered up from the small bushes as we passed.
There were more waders on the next compartment over, and a different variety now. Lots of Little Stints were accompanied by a few Curlew Sandpipers and Dunlin and two Ruddy Turnstone. One of the Little Stints was colour-ringed but although we could see it came from Norway, it was too far off unfortunately to read the code. There was a small group of Ruff, several Wood Sandpipers and a single Marsh Sandpiper. Two Black-tailed Godwits were wading in the deeper water in the middle.
On the next pool, we found a group of Greater Flamingoes and lots of Pied Avocets. One of the Flamingoes was colour-ringed too, and being a much bigger ring it was easier to read the code. It had been ringed as a chick in Spain in August 2019, seen in Portugal in 2020, but ours was the first resighting since then.
Three Eurasian Spoonbills were standing on the bund between the pools here, and a rather sickly-looking Slender-billed Gull was slumped on the mud nearby. As we walked on, a Western Subalpine Warbler and a Willow Warbler flicked ahead of us in and out of the bushes and a Northern Wheatear flashed its white rump as it flew ahead of us and landed on the edge of the bund.
Down to the next crossroads, there were two Little Terns over the deeper pool beyond the channel to our right and another Marsh Sandpiper flew past. Lots of gulls and terns were roosting on the pool to our left along with a small group of Northern Shoveler. We stopped to look through the gulls and terns – a mixture of Grey-hooded and Slender-billed Gulls, lots of Caspian Terns with smaller numbers of West African Crested and Sandwich Terns in with them.
Birds started to fly up as we turned to walk up along the bund beside the pool and a larger gull appeared in with them, a 1st winter Audouin’s Gull. Unfortunately it flew before we could get everyone on it, but landed again at the far end, out of view behind a small island. We walked on, hoping to get a view from further up, but another group appeared coming the other way and the Audouin’s Gull flew again and disappeared.
It was getting very hot now, so Alhaji drove the bus down to meet us at next main junction so we could fill up our water bottles. Several Long-tailed Cormorants were in the trees at the back and a White-breasted Cormorant flew round and landed on the water just in front of them. A single Sand Martin flew past with a few swallows.
After a break for drinks, we carried on round on the next smaller bund. Some of the terns had landed again on the pool beyond and we were hoping the Audouin’s Gull might be with them but when we got to the edge and scanned through there was no sign of it. The water was shallower again and there were more waders on here – similar to before, with lots of Little Stints and Curlew Sandpipers, but one or two Sanderling were in with them too and there were more Turnstones feeding on the mud below the bank. One of group picked up a Grey Phalarope further down, a scarce species here, so we walked down a short way for a closer look.
There were more plovers on the mud over the far side, mostly Ringed Plovers but also three Kittlitz’s Plovers and a single juvenile Little Ringed Plover with them. We had nice views of them all in the scopes. Modou started to walk on, as we were running out of time, just as the laggards at the back who were still scanning picked up a single White-fronted Plover too. We called the rest of the group back for a look.
There were more Western Yellow Wagtails here, including a male ‘Blue-headed Wagtail’ on the mud and a couple of ‘Iberian Wagtails’ which flew round giving their more raspy calls. As the front of the group set off again, a Namaqua Dove flew up from below the bank and round behind us, but unfortunately didn’t land and kept going. The bus was waiting for us at the next bridge on the wider bund and as we drive out along the main track, an Intermediate Egret was on one of the pools.
We didn’t have long today, but we drove over to the nearby Pirang-Bonto Forest for a quick walk. It was the middle of the day and hot now but nicer in the shade of the tall mature trees. Down the main path, two Pied Hornbills flew through the canopy and we could hear Guinea Baboons shouting. A Grey-headed Bristlebill was calling further back and then a Green Hylia started up closer to the main track so we tried to see if we could get it to come in.
It seemed to be moving down so we took a small side path and Modou played the mobbing track on his speaker. A Collared Sunbird started calling now but it was impossible to see any more than just movement from below as it was on the outside of the canopy. A Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher appeared above us and a Lesser Honeyguide flew in. Eventually the Green Hylia showed itself but it was also hard to see looking up into the dense tangles of creepers below the canopy. Modou was whistling Pearl-spotted Owlet as usual too, but fewer birds were coming in to investigate in the heat of the day.
Back out onto the main track, we took another small path into the trees on the other side. A Yellow-breasted Apalis was calling here but wouldn’t show itself either. Unfortunately we were out of time, as we were already late for lunch, so we had to turn round and walk back. The Guinea Baboons were now high in the canopy over the main path and crashed off through the trees as we walked underneath, giving us some nice views when one or two stopped to look down at us.
It was about 40 minutes’ drive over to Marakissa River Camp, where thankfully we were not too late for lunch. While we enjoyed a welcome cold drink in the shade, we scanned looking out over the river beyond. Pied Kingfishers flew up and down, and a Great Kingfisher flew past too but was missed by most of the group. We were served a delicious buffet lunch, chicken in Adama’s own recipe of sticky onions and vegetables (which she explained to us how to cook and we tried to note down!), with rice and homemade peanut sauce. Followed by a large tray of the sweetest watermelon yet and lovely ripe bananas.
After lunch, it was time for the entertainment. Adama walked down to the edge of the river and started calling and clapping her hands. ‘Croccy, croccy’ and in no time at all, a West African Crocodile came out of the water onto the edge of the bank to be fed. Adama tossed some chicken skin on the ground for it to eat and some more for another Crocodile in the water beyond. Several Yellow-billed Kites swooped down to scavenge anything the Crocodiles didn’t get. Great to watch.
Once it started to cool a little, we went for a walk out onto the road and down towards the bridge. Two Yellow-crowned Bishops were in the reeds in the marshy area before the bridge, along with a Tawny-flanked Prinia. A few Spur-winged Lapwings and a couple of Squacco Herons were around the small pools and as we walked on, two Hadada Ibis flew up from under the trees below the road. One of the Hadada Ibis landed in a large tree at the back and from a bit further on, we looked back and got it in the scopes, preening.
On to the bridge, a Malachite Kingfisher was in the reeds and two young Black Crakes appeared in the grass on the edge of the water, creeping around and from time to time putting heads up. A Black-winged Kite circled over and an African Darter flew past.
There was noticeably more water here than usual and apparently there was no way to walk down to the pools the other side of the road at the moment. We scanned from the bridge, but could only see a small part from here. There were more Spur-winged and a couple of Wattled Lapwings, a small group of White-faced Whistling Ducks, a single Common Sandpiper and a group of Cattle Egrets which came in to bathe. A Broad-billed Roller and a Lizard Buzzard were up in the trees in the far distance beyond.
As we started to walk back, a Violet Turaco flew in and landed in a tree opposite where we had some nice views in the scope before it flew out again and across the road in front of us. The two Hadada Ibis came up from under the trees again but disappeared off back through the trees without landing.
Back to the bus at the Lodge, it was about an hour’s drive back to the hotel. The traffic was heavy again with lots of children coming out of the schools but the slow journey allowed us to get a good view of the local life from the windows as we passed and see the goods on offer in the local markets.
Despite the journey we got back to the hotel with a bonus extra 15 minutes tonight before drinks and dinner. It was barbecue night down at the Pool Bar tonight. As we were eating, we could hear a Pearl-spotted Owlet calling in the trees, unless Modou had come back to whistle to us! Before we could finish, the entertainment started – back to an African theme again tonight, but a different group of drummers this time accompanied by acrobats and jugglers. It was entertaining but very loud again and at least we managed to avoid the low flying flaming torches, one of which landed on someone’s handbag under a neighbouring table!
We retired to reception to go through the list and had almost finished by the time some very loud karaoke then started in the main bar. It was time to turn in and thankfully the rooms are far enough from the entertainment.
Thursday 21st November
With a long drive down to the Senegal border at Kartong this morning, we left before dawn. We made good progress with little traffic on the roads and arrived just as it was getting light. Lots of Hooded Vultures were standing around on the main road as we came into the village, presumably warming their feet on the tarmac.
We stopped on the track and as we got out of the minibus our first African Jacana of the day was standing on the flooded path ahead of us. Small flocks of White-faced Whistling Ducks and Cattle Egrets flew past along with a Spur-winged Goose and a couple of Black Herons. We made our way through the houses to Kartong Bird Observatory where we were met by Colin and his wide Binta. Tea and coffee was laid out for us and we sat down on their terrace to eat the packed breakfasts we had brought from the hotel.
Talking to Colin, he confirmed that the late rains this year had affected the timing of the breeding season for a lot of the birds like bishops and whydahs and the timing of migration for some of the palearctic wintering species, as we had witnessed. A couple of Purple Herons flew up from the reeds beyond and a Marsh Harrier quartered over. The first of many Ospreys we would see today flew past. The Bird Observatory is doing lots of research into the Gambian vulture populations and a dead goat which some villagers had found was laid out in front. Several Hooded Vultures where squabbling over the carcass, which was rather aromatic if you stood downwind.
After breakfast, we walked back out to the main track to the bus where we made sure our water bottles were full, then we set off to walk down along the track to the pools. A Great Reed Warbler and a Sedge Warbler were singing in the reeds and the latter was seen briefly by one or two of the group. A Northern Crombec worked its way along the branches of a small acacia nearby. Two Squacco Herons were enjoying the early morning sun perched on a fence in the fields the other side and a pair of Grey Woodpeckers worked their way through the crown of a nearby palm. A pair of Giant Kingfishers flew in and one posed nicely on a dead branch in the top of a nearby tree.
There is a lot of water here too this year and the pools are very full. On the first small pool, a Little Grebe was diving among the lilypads but there were a lot more birds on the larger one the other side a little further up. There were large groups of White-faced Whistling Ducks and several African Swamphens and African Jacanas, all of which eventually gave great views.
Another Little Grebe was on its nest towards the back and several Pied Kingfishers flew round calling or perched on the various bushes. A few Pink-backed Pelicans drifted overhead, a couple of Palm-nut Vultures flew past and there was rarely not an Osprey in the air or perched in the trees.
A different duck flew in with a group of Whistling-Ducks and when it landed we could see it was a brown juvenile Knob-billed Duck. For such a large duck it was remarkably hard to see at times on the water, given all the emergent vegetation.
We climbed up to the top of the low mound to scan the far end of the pools. An adult African Harrier Hawk was raiding the weaver nests on one of the small islands and an expectant juvenile was in the trees further back. With so much water here there is a distinct lack of mud at the moment for waders to feed on so when Fanta flushed a snipe from the vegetation it was perhaps no surprise that we couldn’t find it again.
Walking down we crossed the road and cut in through the trees to the ricefields the other side of the track. A young Grey-headed Kingfisher was perched on a nearby acacia.
Modou put his speaker up on a tree by the path and we stood in the shade nearby while he played the mobbing soundtrack and whistled the call of Pearl-spotted Owlet again. Various birds flew in – several Cordonbleus and a Bronze Mannikin, Variable Sunbird, a couple of Rufous Cisticolas and at least three Western Subalpine Warblers.
Walking on, we found a couple of Viellot’s Barbets, a Woodland Kingfisher and a Tree Pipit which perched up in the acacia trees. A Black-winged Kite drifted over and an Egyptian Mongoose disappeared into the tall rice.
Modou had been struggling with the aftermath of malaria the last couple of days and had forgotten his medication this morning, so he decided to head back home to get it. Fanta led us on but we found we couldn’t go much further through the ricefields as the ringing group had their mist nets up. We cut across towards the track through the trees, where another Viellot’s Barbet and a couple of Striped Kingfishers were perched.
There seemed to be a few more birds here so we played the mobbing soundtrack again but other than a single Western Olivaceous Warbler we only seemed to attract more Beautiful Sunbirds. It was getting very hot now and activity levels seemed to have dropped off, which probably didn’t help. A Lizard Buzzard landed in a nearby tree so we walked round to get a better view where we were not looking into the sun.
The bus met us out on the track and we drove down towards the beach. We could see that the ringing group were still processing birds where they had set up in the bushes just before so we stopped and got out for a look. Several people came over to talk to us and show us birds that had just been ringed. They seemed to be ringing a lot of Village Weavers while we were there, but as well as a couple of those we were shown a Melodious Warbler and a Pied Kingfisher in the hand before they were released. Many thanks to the Kartong ringing group for their time.
It was just a short walk from here down to the beach where we headed first for the ‘refreshment centre’, the beach shack where we could get cold drinks. When we were here last year, a couple in the group had got chatting to Dawda, who sells the drinks, about his Manchester City football shirt. He told them he was actually a Manchester United supporter but it was the only shirt he had been able to get. When they got back to UK they contacted Manchester United Football Club and the Marcus Rashford Fan Club told them the story and they kindly sent them a signed shirt to give to Dawda, which they had then forwarded to us to deliver on the return trip this year.
After the presentation and photos, we enjoyed Dawda’s delicious freshly pressed grapefruit juice. A succession of small groups of Sandwich and West African Crested Terns flew back and forth over the sea beyond and we could see several Pink-backed Pelicans and fishing Ospreys offshore too.
After our break, we went for a walk down along the beach. While not as bad as Tanji, there is still lots of rubbish washed up on the sand here, large tangles of discarded fishing nets, ropes and buoys as well as the usual trash. Lots of hirundines were feeding over the beach and the mangroves behind, including Red-chested, Barn and Mosque Swallows, and both Sand and House Martins.
There were a few Senegal Thick-knees, a Whimbrel and three Ringed Plovers beside the first pool on the edge of the mangroves. Further down, when we stopped to look at a couple of Sanderlings and a Turnstone feeding on the tideline, a single male White-fronted Plover was standing on the sand just above.
There were lots more waders along the shore further down towards the Senegal border, about a dozen Grey Plover, plus more Whimbrel, Sanderlings and Turnstones, but no sign of any Oystercatchers today. A large group of White-breasted Cormorants had gathered with lots of terns and a few gulls to roost on the point at the mouth of the river which marks the border.
It was getting very hot now so we walked back. A long line of Pink-backed Pelicans flew in off the sea and up over the beach. It was a bit of a surprise when we got these to find Modou waiting for us already back at the beach shack. We got on the bus and it was just a short drive from here over to Stala for lunch. While we relaxed in the shade a couple of Mouse-brown Sunbirds flew in to the mangroves nearby.
After lunch, we had a boat trip arranged on the Allahein River, which marks the border with Senegal. We boarded the boat right in front of the lodge and motored slowly downstream first. There were lots of gulls and terns loafing on a mud-bar on the edge of the island in the middle of the river, lots of Caspian and West African Terns and a few smaller Sandwich Terns with them. The gulls were mainly Grey-hooded and Slender-billed plus a few Lesser Black-backed Gulls and a single Yellow-legged Gull.
More surprising was finding 5-6 more Audouin’s Gulls here too, all 1st winters. Better views than we had of the one flying off at Pirang yesterday. One of the Audouin’s Gulls was sporting a blue colour ring and the code suggests it was ringed in Portugal – at the time of writing, we are still waiting to hear back with details.
There were a few waders feeding on the mud behind all the gulls and terns, most notably several Oystercatchers. Nice to see after we had missed them on the beach earlier. As we motored on further downstream, we could see a Greenshank and a couple of Redshank on the edge of the mangroves too.
Modou was sitting up front and spotted a distant Goliath Heron standing in the shallow water on the edge of the river some way ahead. We sped up and headed straight down, the boatman expertly manoeuvring the boat round and close past the Goliath Heron. Great views, at one point it walked across in front of a Grey Heron and we could really see its enormous size, the largest heron in the world standing at 1.5 metres tall.
We turned and came back upstream, past a Gull-billed Tern feeding on the shore. An Osprey was in a tree on the bank but flew out ahead of us and caught a fish midstream. There were lots of Ospreys along the river here, perched in the trees and circling high over, amazing to think where they might have come from.
Back past the lodge, there were a couple of Pink-backed Pelicans on the water in front of the village beyond, sailing slowly past the brightly coloured fishing boats. A boat came out to bring us some more petrol (the boatman had obviously forgotten to fill up) and then we continued on a short distance further upstream, past several Purple Herons lurking on the edge of the mangroves. Over to the Senegal side we managed to get a few birds for our Senegal list, a Mouse-brown Sunbird was in the bushes and a couple of Western Reef Herons and a Black Heron flew out from the edge ahead of us. It was time to turn round and as we motored back round through the small islands, another Goliath Heron, this time a young one, was really close on the bank.
Back to the lodge, we boarded the bus and started to head back north. We made a very quick stop first in some fields to look for White-fronted Black Chat. Hoping it would be right there, Modou thought he saw one fly into the bushes as we got off the bus but nothing came out. We walked a short distance along a track between the fields, finding several Brown Babblers and a Splendid Sunbird, but no sign of the Chats. There was no time to linger here though, as we still wanted to make one last stop so we had to move on.
We pulled up on the edge of some mature forest and walked in along a track through the trees. Three women were coming out the other way carrying firewood and we could see several stumps of recently chopped down trees, so the forest here may not be around for long. A couple of Gambian Sun Squirrels were in the undergrowth by the path. We walked in down to a hide overlooking a small concrete drinking pool.
Several Little Greenbuls and African Thrushes were already in, bathing or drinking. A Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and an African Pygmy Kingfisher came in too and we could see a Western Bluebill lurking in the trees behind. Several Grey-headed Bristlebills appeared, and came down to drink, having heard a couple it was nice to see one properly at last.
Our main target here was Capuchin Babbler and we didn’t have to wait too long before a small group of them came in through the undergrowth. They were shy and stayed lurking in the background, not coming in to the pool, but we had good views of them in the last of the light. Known only from this one site in The Gambia, a nice bird to finish on, it was time to head back to the hotel.
By the time we got back to the hotel it was already dark. We said our goodbyes to Modou, Fanta and Alhaji, Modou Taal came to say farewell too, and we thanked them all for their help over the last few days. Then we just had time for a quick shower before we met up again for our last dinner down at the Pool Bar. Once again, we had not finished eating by the time the very loud entertainment started up again, the singer this time doing his best to crucify some well-known and popular songs. We retired to reception to do the list for the last time.
Friday 22nd November
Our last morning and with our plane not departing until this afternoon, we had the morning at leisure. After a more relaxed breakfast than we had enjoyed the rest of the week, most of the group opted to potter around the grounds. There were the usual Hooded Vultures, Yellow-billed Kites and Pied Crows, plus a selection of Long-tailed Glossy Starlings, White-crowned Robin Chats, Blackcap Babblers and Western Red-billed Hornbills around the lawns. A couple of Yellow-billed Shrikes, a pair of Grey Woodpeckers and two Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters appeared high in the trees.
Down at the beach, there didn’t appear to be much passing offshore today. Standing and scanning for a while, we did see a few Caspian, West African Crested and Sandwich Terns, two Lesser Black-backed Gulls and a couple of White-breasted Cormorants fly past. An Osprey was fishing some way out and a couple of Yellow-billed Kites were flying round over the sea. It wasn’t too long though before we attracted the attention of the local bumsters so we retreated back to the grounds of the hotel.
For those who wanted, there was the option of an early lunch/brunch at the Beach Bar before we then met up at reception to check out. There was a little time before the bus was due to pick us up and it was while sitting round now that we learned there was a security alert at Gatwick and the South Terminal had been closed, causing chaos. Thankfully the plane we were due to fly back on was already on its way out – one less thing to worry about. The bus arrived and we were quickly transferred to the airport, where lots of Little Swifts were swooping low around the terminal building. There was little or no queue to check in or get through security and within no time at all we found ourselves waiting in the departure lounge.
Thankfully, while we were sitting there, the news came through that Gatwick South Terminal had been reopened. The flight took off on time and arrived twenty minutes early, although we had to park out on the tarmac as there were still planes on all the stands after the disruption earlier. The second bus to the terminal then sat inexplicably for twenty minutes by the plane with the doors open even though no one else came to get on. It was close to freezing outside too, a bit of a shock after the about 35C it had been in The Gambia earlier. By the time the bus driver eventually got back in and drove us to the buildings, at least there were no queues and our bags were already waiting for us on the carousel. We said our goodbyes and headed off into the chilly London night.
